sendero los quetzales (the quetzales trail)
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一周前,我们走在这两百多米的小路上,导游突然听到绿咬鹃的叫声,他吹出奇怪的声音把它们都叫了过来。几分钟后,雌鸟,雄鸟和幼鸟,一共十到十二只,有序的排列着。这是我经历过的最特别一次的看鸟儿的经历。第二天早晨我们又回到了同一个地方,但是这次一只鸟儿都没有。这就是观鸟的自然规则。我们应该是在对的时间对的地点,但是结果不对,只能说有其他更好的观鸟儿地点。
..到前往“巴霍单”的巴士站,让司机带着你开过山上的巴霍单几公里到察库护林站!为不用走2到3 公里的上坡路,你付点额外的钱是值得的。波魁特的短途游就是到“米拉多洛杉矶罗卡斯”或在怪物上坡台阶前停止,因为那里的景色不值得。
绿咬鹃会随着季节的变化而迁徙到山坡上或山坡下,有时它们会完全离开这片区域。如果早点去,沿着那条小径往远处走(或者一路从塞罗蓬这端一直走到莫凯迪那端),并且学鸟叫(请看网址Xeno-canto.org),你看到它们的几率就会增加。虽然不是那么得惊人,但是非常有意思的是极其活跃的三肉垂钟雀已经开始在莫凯迪的那端鸣叫了。最理想的是,带上你的双筒望远镜去观看雄雀向雌雀震耳欲聋地鸣叫(同样,可以在Xeno-Canto网站上听这种鸟叫声)。对麦克的回答是,这条小路没有得到维护。它原先完全破烂不堪了,不久以前已经花了很大一笔钱进行了维修,毫无疑问,它还会变得破败不堪的。
我们从顶端(Cerro Punta)开始远足,这里是美丽的地方,不过非常茂密,很难看到鸟类。我觉得在Lonely Planet一书里,Panama这方面的建议给的不多,他们说绿咬鹃实在太普遍了,甚至在路上都能看到。其他的鸟类也让人失望,如果你真的想看绿咬鹃,最好去哥斯达黎加的Savagre地区。
这条小路有标志和指示牌,所以走起来方向明晰。因为书上说最好有个导游,我们没有导游还有些担心。不过假如你是有徒步经验,一点问题也没有。最好带张地图,不过我们什么也没有发现。在中间有个宿营的地方,无论从那边出发都需要花费两个小时的时间才能走到路上。路上可能没有交通工具,所以做好在柏油路上步行2.5个小时的准备。一天有几次公交车。
If you want the chance to see a very rare bird with the appropriate name of Resplendent Quetzal, this is the place. It is a shimmering emerald green and black with a long green tail. It is a whole day's trek, at a slow speed, since you will be stopping for bird sightings. The journey is worth it on its own, even if you see nothing.
How can you not like something natural and beautiful? The only disadvantage is that it was sprinkling the day we went, but it didn't stop us from enjoying the beauty. We saw some waterfalls, a couple of quetzals, and even a sloth! If you enjoy nature, I'd recommend the trail!
We had the trip arranged by Boquete Adventure tours and had to be ready for our pickup at our hotel at 6 am. We were wildly lucky for the two of us to have Jason for our bird watching and cloud forest guide. He is a local and was fantastic. We started out on a road above Boquete and Jason could spot so many birds, get his tripod and scope set in seconds , and then show us so many colorful birds. One of the early ones was the almost electric blue "red legged honey creeper". Then after say 45 minutes of spotting many varieties, Jason drove us high up into the cloud forest. There he paid $3 apiece for us to use the " Quetzales Trail" across private property. We hiked up thru the lush, beautiful cloud forest for over an hour. Near the top of the trail is an area that the quetzals are often seen. Jason showed us 2 nests in trees, then he spotted a young quetzal right above us. He could call them. After we started down, he showed us a mature male, and finally a 3rd beautiful big male calling back from right above us. So we saw 3 quetzals ! amazing ! Then Jason stopped at the Larida coffee farm, processing plant, and hotel and coffee shop. We had a great cup of coffee and got to see the many hummingbirds that are there all the time in the gardens and flowers. Ask for Jason, as he is wonderful and the best !
I booked a tour with holapanamatravel (located @mamallana Hostel).the cost were 55usd! What was included? Transfer From boquete to Cerro punta, a very very fast hike (More Running) of our tour Guide...we were back at boquete at 2.15!!! Not to mention that with this Speed we were Not able to See anY Bird!! 3 of our groups Decided to Walk Slower and they have spotted a Bird...so better arrange a Taxi yourself if you want to do the hike From Cerro punta or insist that you have time to Look After birds...
The trail is a beautiful uphill slog. If you're a birder, there's lots to see, if not you'll probably enjoy it anyway. teh chances of seeing a quetzal without a birder-guide are low. You could read my blog account at http://www.mybirdoftheday.ca/2015/02/14/resplendent-quetzal/
Ok.... so you need to be patient or go with a guide - such as BOA - but to see a flock of quetzals in one tree and mature males - with long tail feathers - just above our heads a few hundred feet later was an indescribable experience. We were dropped off at the trail head - and paid $3 a person to cross private property. It is about a 30 minutes "hike" to get to the area where they are feeding. Other people on the trail were helping each other locating the birds. Best of Boquete!
We drove what seemed like to the end of the world going ever higher on small sinuous roads with virtually no guard rails. The air was reified when we finally found the ranger station with two rangers stationed at the trail entrance. We managed to only get half way through the 5 hour trail, which was good because we had to walk back. The trail is pretty rugged but wide. really it is a 4 wheel drive road with beautiful scenery everywhere. We saw several small farms with live stock and crops grown by the local indigenous Indians. Do bring a pack with rain gear. If you are not somewhat fit and in good health, don't go because there are long up hill and down hill sections. Unfortunately we didn't see the fabled and elusive bird, but well worth the nature walk. In fact the drive back to town- down hill- is insanely adrenaline filled for the driver and scary for my wife, in the passenger seat, who learned very well to say Adios Dios with every turn.
Panama has got great scenery, but sadly, we don't take good care of it. Resources are low, and there's not a lot of culture of safeguarding our national parks.I called ANAM (the environmental agency) to inquire about this trail's condition, and I was told it was in very good condition and could be hiked without a guide, but still recommended hiring one.I agree that it's possible to do the trail without a guide, as there aren't many possibilities to get lost, and it's nice that there's a signpost every kilometer so you know you're in the right direction, but that's the only thing you get. The trail itself was incredibly muddy, in many places we walked in mud up to our ankles and there were many parts downhill where the mud slowed down our progress significantly.That being said, I enjoyed the trail a lot. The scenery is beautiful, with lush tropical forest everywhere and the Caldera river present almost all the time. It isn't difficult if you've done hiking before, especially if you start in Cerro Punta, as it's mostly downhill all the way to Boquete. There are some uphills at the start and some more at the end, but they aren't too difficult. The whole trail is 8km from the last paved road in Bajo Grande (Cerro Punta) to the paved road in Alto Chiquero (Boquete).I did this with some relatives early this year, and they were definitely not used to hiking, so it was a bit difficult for them. As I said, I didn't find it difficult, but you do get quite dirty with all of the mud, and it's easy to trip as it's often slippery. Do keep in mind that I did the W in Torres del Paine a few months ago, so Los Quetzales was piece of cake for me. With my party's condition, we managed to do this in about 7 hours.
Nature at its best, a serious trail through a serious cloud/rain forest. A must see sure to enthrall.
Hike was wonderful and yes we saw Quetzels on the Avocado tree! we didn't do the whole trail but it was an easy walk and full of interest especially for birders