卡齐兰加国家公园
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印度之旅最棒的地方。由于我们来得比较早(9月中旬),大量迁徙鸟类还没有到来,但数种在印度境内的迁徙鸟已经开始筑巢了,如果再早也就看不到这般景象。公园不大,主路约5km,骑车轻松完成,另有一些岔路,如果骑车的话一天逛完没有问题。随着越来越深入湿地,眼前的景象只能用“WOW”来形容。鸟儿的巢穴非常密集,除了美丽的大型鸟类,各种小鸟不计其数,耳边交织着不同种类的鸟鸣声,令人忘俗。除了鸟类,园子里还有其它野生动物,羚羊随处可见,也有鹿不过比较怕人,得深入才能见到,傍晚会有豺狗出没。河道里有大鱼,成群地张着嘴守着泄水闸。还有印度大鳖,悠悠地晒太阳。虽然野生动物繁多,但很多时候没有经验会注意不到,因为很多动物很隐蔽胆子也小,园子里的自然导游就非常有帮助,它们熟悉各种动物的栖息地,能帮助找到很多动物。在这里远离尘埃和喧嚣,也没有其它旅游点的混乱、嘈杂,没有人向你推销或索要小费,只需要全身心地融入自然。
这是我们第一次去卡齐兰加国家公园,在那里观鸟真的很不错哦。大约下午一点我们从古尔冈到达了巴拉特普,那时候吃完午餐、休息小会儿然后在下午三点去参观公园真的太完美了。买了票就开车进去,要不然如果你在公园入口做脚踏人力三轮车,就会浪费很多时间。我们很幸运,今年水很多,因此那里有成群的小鸟。我们看到了很多白头鹮鹳、鸬鹚、鹭、鹈类鸟或叫蛇鸟、黑水鸡、犀鸟、蛇鵰、鹈鹕鸟 、大批的鸭子和蹼鸡,还有罕见的欧夜鹰,我们还极其幸运的是看到了一对赤颈鹤,它们真的是非常漂亮迷人的鸟,还是在印度发现的最高的鸟类。总之,这是爱鸟者的福气啊!那里也还有其他的动物-大量的梅花鹿和羚羊,还有一些胡狼和大猫鼬。我本想还想看蟒蛇,但是要走一会儿,对我小女儿走不去-或许走去得花几年时间!我喜欢坐脚踏人力三轮车四处逛,那能保证公园的静谧,不像吉普车冲向别的公园发生了什么事一样。实际上,这地方有一种平静使得整个经历都很美妙!我希望并祈祷雨神继续在巴拉特普保持微笑。我们是二月份去的,那时候要看到所有的迁徙动物有点晚了,最理想的时间的一月份的第一周左右那时候动物的种类和鸟的数量据说都是最多的。下一次一定在那个时候去!
我们有幸在雨过之后参观了凯奥拉德奥加纳国家公园(据我们所知,前些年这里受到了几次旱灾的影响,湿地大幅度减少,鸟儿们不得不另寻巢穴)。虽然我们是在鸟儿迁徙旺季(2月)前2个月来的,但还是看到了60多种鸟类,我们还看到了很多大大小小的哺乳动物,自然景色非常美丽。公园很方便步行游览,向导服务很优质。我们的人力车车夫Bijay(我希望我拼对了)用人力车载我们度过了一个美好的下午,期间我们看见了很多我们想看到的鸟。Hashir(我希望我这次也拼对了)是一位自然学家,他和我们一起走路游览,一路上我们看到了很多很小而且很难辨认的鸟,如果不是有那位自然学家和观测仪的话,我们根本就看不到。第二天,我们在小船上度过了一个宁静的早上。
首先,对于那些不知道巴拉特普尔的人,这里我可以用几个词来形容一下它。它是以凯奥拉德奥加纳国家公园里的鸟类而著名。它曾经是爱鸟者的天堂,直到近几年,由于缺水,公园里的洼地和沼泽地也干涸了。候鸟首先离开了,游客也是一样。我曾经在2007年去过这间公园一次,那时候情况真的很糟糕。2008年11月份,也就是上个星期,我从德里去迪布鲁格尔的时候,一篇文章吸引了我的注意力。文章中提到候鸟今年已经回巴拉特普尔了。幸亏有适当的季风,今年巴拉特普尔的运河里又有很多水了。那真是个好消息。去年我参观公园的时候运河都还是干的。公园的管理者想通过用泵从2口自流井里抽水灌溉的方式让公园保持生机。我们见到的鸟类屈指可数,看到的蓝牛和鹿都比小鸟多。但是,走路从公园里穿过可以使你感觉到这个地方要是有水和小鸟该有多漂亮。幸运的是我的愿望这么快就成真了。所以我回到了德里,在接下来那个星期去巴拉特普尔进行我的第二次旅游。这是2008年12月的第一个星期。巴拉特普尔离德里只有180千米,一个周末旅行很容易就可以去了。我们决定不坐火车,自己开车去(2060 Kota Janashatabdi),因为坐火车意味着要到站里租辆出租车,然后等在那里,再坐其它车去巴拉特普尔的酒店。坐火车唯一有吸引力的地方就是每张票只要80卢比,确实非常便宜。不过这对夫妻和小家庭来说是最好的选择。去酒店的路上,我们得知公园里这段时间已经有了足够的水,甚至还可以划船了。真是好消息。公园不仅仅从今年巨大的降雨量中收益,而且另外来自附近水坝的水也流进公园里了。午饭后不久我们就去了公园。因为我对公园很熟悉,所以我们想像运输工具一样循环游览一圈。在离我们很近的地方发现了小鸟,真的让我们太高兴了。成群结队的彩色鹳和朱鹭停在离马路很近的地方。这里有很多不同种类的苍鹭和鸭子。幸运的是,第二天早上我们还看到了一对著名的鹤。最后看到的一对是在晚上旅行时。但那个时候鸟跟鸟之间都有一定的距离。而现在的这对离得非常近,仅仅只有不到300毫米的距离。简直是巨大的额外收获。除了上面提到的,这也是我们看到的:一只兔子、一对胆子大得敢在白天闲逛的豺狗、三种不同的物种的猫头鹰、鸬鹚、蛇鸟、灰苍鹭、紫苍鹭、淡水龟、2中不同种类的翠鸟、苏格兰雷鸟、泰米尔鹿、梅花鹿和蓝牛。我跳过了几只普通的鸟,那些我们经常会在自家院子里看到,像罗宾岛、夜鹰等。这次我们进行了2趟旅行。一次是在我们到的那天下午,另一次是第二天清晨。2次都是环游。大概花了3000卢比。这趟旅游的总结:绝对是一次值得花钱花时间去的旅行。
2008年12月29号我们参观了卡齐兰国家公园。这一年的季风很好,所以那里的雨水很多。很明显,下一年也会很好,因为这一年良好季风的持续会吸引很多鸟类(明显会超过这一年)。我不是观鸟专家,所以要不是借着导游的眼睛和望远镜我可能看不到这么多鸟。我们的导游Rinkesh Choudhury来自一流的巴拉普尔皇家旅馆。英语说得很好,而且知识渊博......甚至他的德语也说的很流利。他带我们参观了公园里的每一只鸟......那些甚至是不经常看到的,像翠鸟、一只红头啄木鸟。我们见到了20多种鸟,许多哺乳动物(鹿、羚羊)和一只巨蜥。那真是个很棒的地方,有很多生物。我一定会再去的,因为那天的6个小时我们仅仅参观了公园的10%。如果在拉贾斯坦邦,你一定要去这个地方参观,但是尽量查看一下那年气候是不是很好,如果连年干旱,那这里可能没那么生机勃勃。强烈推荐给每个人......不仅仅是观鸟者。
马马虎虎,这里可能已经不是以前的样子了。如果你是一个专门的观鸟人,那这里一定会让你很失望的。但是当我们在08年2月来这里的时候却度过了很不错的一天,还拍了很多照片。你可以在公园的门口找到黄包车,不需要额外的导游,因为司机本身就是很好的观鸟人。在取得在公园工作的执照之前,他们必须参加一个培训,来确保他们不仅仅只是老式黄包车的司机而已。我们在开始之前先对他的英文水平进行了确认,好确保彼此基本上能过正常沟通。进入园区以后,他很快就明白了并不赶时间,而是希望可以好好的观察每处的鸟类。所以他带我们找到了许多的鸟,几只猴子,甚至是一条长5米的巨蟒!我们看到了许多漂亮的鸟,也拍了许多好看的照片。前往记得带上长镜头的相机!
We went at reasonably right time. Saw lots of migratory ducks and birds. You have to hire Rikshaw to go inside or walk. Suggest take a rikshaw and good guide with telescope. memorable experience.
Situated right there on the Agra –Jaipur highway [NH 11] this bird sanctuary is an invitation to all weary souls looking for some relaxation away from the maddening crowds of cities. Coming from Agra, it is situated on this highway, just a few kilometers before the Delhi-Alwar-Bharatpur or say Mathura-Bharatpur road joins this National Highway. Parking is just 100 meters next to the entrance, for two wheeler, cars and even buses. Open all year round, ticket is Rs 50 per adult, students and children get a discount. Foreigners pay Rs 400. Canteen is just packaged food, water and tea. Cycle repair facility available. Make sure to carry enough water and food for the duration of visit. Bring along your most capable camera with longest zoom.If you love nature or birds and animals or trekking or cycling, you are invited to a trip to this fabulous place. Even if you are a romantic lover, it is a recommended destination; yes, it is safe [safer than many other locations] for just 2 of you, provided you love the natural backdrop for the time of togetherness. Minimum time to appreciate this place is one day; else you can spend any number of days here in serenity. As far as the best time to visit this sanctuary is concerned, it depends on what you like to see. If you like to meet migratory friends, the best time is late November to late February. In other times you will be greeted by local and local-migratory birds. In one season you will meet mating birds, in other you will find nesting birds and in another you will meet young birds learning to fly. In rainy season you will find water bodies full of water and greenery all around but humidity and rains may dampen your spirits. Early and late winter may be considered best time for most people. Mid winter is foggy.To relish this greenery you have a 5.5 km long road which means a journey of 11km, forth and back. Plus there are many treks. You can go on foot, on cycle [available on rent], on rickshaw or tonga on hourly basis, or if you want to tick the boxes on your travel checklist, a golf cart. My recommendation is a tonga especially if you are a small group, typical Indian family size, because a tonga seats some 6 six people together while a rickshaw seats just two. Moreover a tonga gives you a higher vantage point which comes handy when a pack of 20-30 tourists , mostly foreigners, have gathered on ground to watch a bird or two. Plus for city dwellers and especially their children, a tonga is a picture book coming alive in the form of a tonga. Think of it – how many of you have seen a real tonga, leave alone the question of sitting in one. For treks, a guide is must for your safety.Your rickshawwalla or tongawalla is your guide as well but you if you want more take help of a naturalist against a fee. Binoculars are available on rent. It is interesting to note how your favorite playback singers occupy the center stage under the able guidance of a guide. You must have heard a bird singing but to see who the singer is , you need a guide and it is amazing to see how they spot birds which despite his directions remains elusive to untrained eyes. For the ornithologist in the making, a visit to the Dr Salim Ali Centre is recommended. ITDC- hotel Ashok is situated right inside this sanctuary, consult reviews before you book. There are many good hotels in the vicinity of this sanctuary.Spare your time for birds but spare a little money for souvenirs. The official shop at the entrance has many souvenirs in the form of t-shirts, jackets, caps and many paintings and prints. All well made and well priced too. There are many relevant books but must try to get a copy of illustrated guide to the park which may be out of stock at times, the staff is courteous though. My recommendation is – go for the jacket.
The way government is looking after a national park ... just sucks. How do they manage to do that? Water problems between states ... a national park gets dragged into.Trust me guys I am totally in for the National park. The flora, fauna, vastness, large plains, variety of birds, heritage is quite good but the way it is in shambles is not THE WAY. I don't know but the place gives you an eerie kinda feeling, feeling which comes up due to distrust ... something like whether the eagle owl the guides are showing is real or not? Is the snake bird which is drying itself up for a few hours now, same place no movement, stuffed?Siberian Cranes; which used to be; a major attraction why haven't they turned up and for a few years in a row now? Winters and the park has almost dried up God knows what will happen later. Cycles in the condition which they are in, are better not to ride on ... and so on.Guides will tell you their share of stories of the past and how this place used to be their place but how is just a source of income now which too is a rarity many a days.All in all, I would still suggest to visit the place, once for sure, for it is an experience like no other for the first timers.
It is a beautiful place and a must visit for birder's and biologist. It is interesting to know how the man made wetland has been changing over the years and watch all the resident and migrant birds. If you take a cycle, make sure to have a bird guide handy. I recommend a cycle rikshaw if you are not familiar with birds. The rickshaw drivers know where the main birds are found and can show you. Majority of the times, your driver will double up as your naturalist so you do not need to hire one seperately but make sure to talk to your driver beforehand to find out. A small warning to foreigners, there is a temple inside the park and the 'priest' at the temple can sweet talk and then ask for donation of Rs 500 and more. Please do not pay and if you must give a small donation let the sum be your own choice.
i had taken morning trip and excellent surprise was waiting for me after sun rise. varieties of national and international migratory birds were moving in park.nice satisfaction of eyes and mind also.move with a rickshaw(tri cycle)--officially it is available in park's gate--all the drivers are very expert guide.it was a nice experience.
About 120 km from New Delhi, it is a Birder's Paradise! The park opens around 7 am and we reached the place around the same time. We hired a cycle- rickshaw(3 wheeler) and a naturalist.The cycle -rickshaw charges Rs.100 per hour for two passengers and the naturalist's fees is Rs.250 per hour for the entire group. He comes with a spotting scope. The name of our naturalist is Prakash Chand and he was keen and knowledgeable.We could sight Chestnut shouldered Petronia, Greater Coucal, Laughing Dove, Eurasian Coot, Moorhen, Ruddy Shelduck, Glossy Ibis, White tailed Lapwing, Northern Shoveller,Common Snipe, Lesser whistling duck, Greylag Goose, Indian spot billed duck, Egyptian Vulture,Purple swamphen, Darter, Pied bushchat, common Stone chat, Citrine wagtail, red wattled lapwing, purple heron, grey heron, grey francolin, Dusky eagle owl, Orange headed Thrush, Common Hoopoe, white breasted water hen and of course a pair of Sarus cranes.Stayed overnight at Laxmi Vilas Palace, a luxury hotel with good ambiance, courteous service and tasty food costing Rs.5000 per double room.
Bird options is very rich. Hoping to get around Jan/Feb to catch some migratory birds. Plenty cycle rickshaw available. Feel free to ask questions to your guy before you board. the one we got knew very little or nothing. Pointed out an orphean warbler and mentioned robin.
We visited this place in early March 2015. Early morning (around sunrise) is the best time to visit. There is an option of taking a cycle rickshaw, bicycle or walking inside. Cycle rickshaw is the best option since the drivers are so well conversant with the birds. They are able to identify and spot all the birds so you do not need a guide. Take binoculars.. one for each person. The booking office may run out of them though the cycle rickshaw guys will provide an alternative. We were told it takes about a couple of hours but we spent more than 4 hours. You may want to carry eatables as you will feel hungry. The canteen at centre point is very basic and has only tea / coffee with biscuits and munchees.There is a fair priced souvenir chop at the entrance which opens only at 10 am. it has a good collection of books, tees, caps, etc. All reasonably priced.We had a great time. My kids wrote down almost 60 / 70 names of birds that they spotted.
A great place to stop and get some peace, but I'm not much of a bird watcher so I did get a little bored after a time, my husband enjoyed it though! I imagine for bird lovers this is a must-do. We hired a rickshaw cyclist and he was great - he helped point out birds to us including some cute owls!