ivolginsk datsan (buddhist monastery)
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Having visited Japan, I was let down by the temples here. I agree that it looks unusual to see Buddhist temples in Russia but they were really weird inside. There were a few tourists and I saw a couple of monks praying but no other followers of Buddhism. It might be an important place of worship but I didn't get that feeling. Anyway, if you want to see something different, this is your place (but don't reserve too much time for it!).
This complex houses numerous temples, prayer edifices, souvenir shops, and homes, all full of character. As an architectural attraction each building is delightful and they're constantly working to expand and improve the grounds. The monks pray actively each day and allow visitors to observe, providing a small window into their devoted worship. The Datsan also had the best souvenir shopping (and most reasonable prices) we could find in the region. We found 90 minutes to be the right amount of time, so with travel this is a four hour excursion from Ulan-Ude. CAUTION: we were unable to locate hte bus stop in Ulan-Ude to take the marshrutka (minibus) no. 130 to Ivolga. The taxi driver from the train station took us to a bus stop in a parking lot on Banzarova street, but only minibus 3 came to that stop. As far as we could gather there was another stop or station further down where minibus 130 picked up passengers. Since we couldn't be sure, we asked one of the many taxi drivers hanging around in the parking lot and received a very reasonable quote of 600 rubles (less than $20) for the 45 minute journey. He also agreed to wait and return us to Ulan-Ude for the same price. We tipped him 300 rubles for a total price of 1500 rubles (a tad over $40) for direct private roundtrip transport! The ride is a great part of the experience as well. You'll gaze out on picturesque mountains while admiring the Asian decorative touches the Buryatiyans made to their their Stalinesque apartment buildings or Siberian gingerbread homes.
the temples are beautiful, still in use, and are a big contrast from the cathedrals and kremlins you'll see elsewhere in russia. it's also not hard to get there and it's cheap, so it's worth doing for a few hours. expect to spend an hour getting there, an hour there, and an hour getting back, i'd say. i didn't have to pay to get in, but that's likely because it was off season. you are expected to pay to take photos (50 RUB, i believe)updated info on how to get there: the buses leave from the bus terminal next to the river to the west of lenin's head (it's close to the intersection ул. профоюозная and ул. шмидта, if that helps, your hostel/hotel should be able to tell you exactly where or give you a map). they might still leave from close to the Odigitrievsky Cathedral, but i didn't see any there, which was frustrating and involved me wandering around for a while.once you get to the bus station, get on the 130 mini bus (costs 40 RUB) to the last stop, ivolginsk village, and take the only bus there to the datsan (costs 20 RUB). then do the same coming back (may be easier for you to get off at lenin's head instead of the bus station, where the buses will go on the way back).
Yes used to be the first and the only one buddhist monastery in Soviets, yes it is the residence of the Head lama for Russia, yes it is the place where Imperishable Itigelov gives blessings to believers. But there is a market right on the territory, a stadium in front of the main gate and it takes 50 rubles for visiting the monastery...Please make sure you are not expecting something really "special" from this place before you go there. It is just one of the places you visit.
This monastery really embodies the cultural diversity of Russia and of the Buryatia republic: a beautiful Buddhist enclave near Ulan-Ude. It's definitely worth going to see the architecture and feel the vibe of the settlement.
It is very interesting and a great place to get the feeling of the people. Still active as a religious place of worship.
Easy to access with a public bus from Ulan Ude (change in the Verkhnyaya Ivolga village to the obvious onward marshrutka), it is worth a half day trip - or longer, if you're into Buddhism. When I visited, it was possible to join or observe a puja ritual. There are several temples, stupas and other significant buildings, all astoundingly beautiful amidst the wilderness. You may want to pack snacks, there wasn't a lot of choice in the café when I visited.
While the surrounding landscape was covered by snow, Ivolginsk Datsan was easily spotted from the car due to it's colorful decorations. We spent over an hour walking around exploring the temple grounds, ignoring the -15C weather outside. Definitely worth the visit, just check out my pictures, simply stunning!
Authentic. Not a tourist trap. I would have liked to know about the beliefs and what each temple meant.
The feelings I have got there were amazing. The people around are very kind and nice. The architecture is incredible.
If you are interested in buddhism, you just have to visit it!! It´s not so easy to reach the place. We used marshutkas, it was Ok, but you have to speak at least some Russian in order to find the right bus, time etc. And spend at least some hours there, the place is worth it!!
Very interesting place with great views across Ulan-ude. I recommend organising a guide to take you around the site as you are likely to get more from the trip.
Wander around the monastery village and attend various ceremonies, bringing you to a place that you surely didn't expect to find in Russia
Very impressive monastery, especially in winter time! Join a guided tour with zabaikalom.com, you'll get the best tour there you can imagine! It's the best agency we've found in the whole baikal region, very helpful and friendly people! Try also a tour to the village of the ancient believerers - very interesting and strange. You definitly get better experience in calm and quiet winter time - be sure, Siberian winters are definitly not as "hard" as thought in Europe!!
You should be able to reach Ivolginks Datsan comfortably within an hour by car from Ulan Ude. The journey takes you across rolling plains, past wooden houses and village churches. A notable - and moving - landmark is the hill side with the famous mantra 'Om Ma Ni Pad Me Hum' set out in white stone. The monastery emerges from the plain in a blaze of primary colours. Cattle graze by the irrigation channels running parallel to the road. There is a basic restaurant serving soft drinks, boozas and other local specialities. The toilet facilities are spartan but clean. The monastery is a mix of wooden houses for the monks and wonderful temples. Dogs wander the precinct placidly. We were not able to visit the famous shrine of Khambo lama Dasha-Dorjo Itigelov (1852-1927). I understand that the shrine is only open to the public on special occasions or by special arrangement. Nor were we able to visit the lamas, though I understand that local people make the journey to the monastery regularly for consultations. The temple sites are moving and inspiring, with wonderful expositions of Buddhist cosmology. I was particularly struck by the shrines to Green and White Tara, the saviour-goddesses born out of the tears of compassion of the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara. Souvenirs purchased within the temples are pricey - but then they go to a good cause. There are stalls in the monastery precinct selling trinkets, hats and clothing (for example, camel hair socks). Some people might find these intrusive, but I did not. I would strongly recommend a visit to this holy place to anyone who is interested in the history and culture of Buryatia. I am ashamed to say that I knew nothing about Russian Buddhism before my visit. It was good to see it flourishing after so much suffering and persecution. I felt my visit to Ivolginsk Datsan was one of the highlights of our trip to Buryatia.